Candlemaking 101 -- SO that WE DO NOT HAVE TO PAY THE UTILITY COMPANY FOR LIGHT!
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NOTE: Cat owners, parents of children, narcoleptics who fall asleep in a second and are out cold...know that CANDLES BURN DOWN to stubs and set on fire what's beneath them. They also can BURN YOU DOWN. You have to be on your toes to use them. Some tall thin CANDLES will FALL OVER & they set fire to whatever is around them. But if you are vigilant, know the rules, then you can cut utility bills down by 90%. However, If you have narcolepsy, kids or cats it pays to use ELECTRIC LIGHT.
Candles are simple to make, require few special tools or materials, and are powerful focal points for visualization and personal power. You can certainly run to the store to purchase candles for rituals, but those you've made yourself will personalize your magic to an even greater extent. But if you're making candles for the CHEAP LIGHT...forget that I mentioned SPIRITUAL PRACTICE as a good reason. Possibly the best reason to make them is that in times of disaster, the first thing that goes is the electricity! With weather so nuts these days and terrorists trying to take out utilities, you want to master this art form, CANDLE MAKING!
First, the HISTORY OF CANDLES! Did you know the Chinese made seeds and
insects into the first candles?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_candle_making
http://hubpages.com/hub/How-to-make-candles
Now, let's decide what kind of candle you'll be making, certainly not insects frozen end to end in beef fat. Let's concentrate on gardenia scented Tealights or tall thin elegant dinner party candles or big thick chunky 'ten weekers'. Whatever it is, you need wax. The CHINESE used cow fat and your butcher probably would give you all you need for a dime. BEES wax is available from local bee keepers, for a price. But, I believe that FREE is the best way, tell all your friends to save their burnt down candle stubs for you. This will be good for a few pounds of wax a month. Or Purchase your wax, either paraffin or candle wax colour chips, oils, herbs at a craft store if you're made of money. Maybe you're into that new GREEN wax, it's SOY bean based. Supposedly it leaves the air in your house clean and breatheable which paraffin does NOT. Whatever you've got, any port in a storm, right? Assemble all your materials before you start melting the wax, i.e: line up the wax, containers, wicking, strange wax finds like the wax around cheese, which your pals can save for you as they eat cheese. You get a nice RED CANDLE out of that, or pink. Then all those handmedown stubs, then wax coloring, old crayons (the kiddies can help you there,), herbs, oils, a wooden spoon, a discarded sauce pan (to be used ONLY for melting wax, no food thereafter), coffee can or a can large enough to fit in saucepot and leave space enough for water, molds,etc.
Fill your pot halfway with water and bring to a boil. Break the wax 
into
small pieces and when water boils place your wax in the can and the can
into the water in the pot. Turn heat down to medium and watch closely to
make sure the wax doesn't get too hot. You should probably have a thermometer
for this part. Different types of wax have different melt points and they
also have flash points (temps where the wax can actually go bonkers &
flame up. Turn heat down if necessary. Once wax melts turn heat down to
low.
Depending on what type of candle you are going to make, add your color to the wax, add crayons if you can find them at thrift stores, add oils or herbs and blend well. If you use herbs, you can either strain the wax or leave the herbs to burn Warning - burning herbs don't smell the way you think they should, but they are great for magickal purposes. You can also use powdered herbs instead of cut.
There are many additives that you can add to candles to make them harder,
or hold the colour better and probably a bunch of other reasons, too.
However, when making candles for magick, the simpler the ingredients
are
kept the better. In the old days, candles were made from tallow. Today,
the
wax used is a chemical, and even though adding further chemicals to
it
might increase the sale value of the candle, it will also decrease
the
magickal effectiveness. If you stick to fewer chemical additives and
go
with plain candles, with magickal colours and herbs, you should find
that
your rituals will have more natural power in them.
HOW TO MAKE A CANDLE WICK: http://handcraftedtravellers.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/prepare-your-materials-for-beeswax-candle-making.jpg
Prime your wick by saturating it with melted wax and letting the wax
harden
before using. Cut the wick to the size you want plus 1-2 inches.
If you are going to make taper candles pour wax into a dipping can (one
that's as long as you want your candles to be). Begin dipping. Hold
a
length of wicking between your thumb and forefinger. Dunk it into the
wax.
After dipping, hold it in the air for a moment or two until the wax
has
set. Dip again, and again until the candle has reached the width you
want.
When done, hang the candle in a spot where it won't be touched for
several
minutes. A cabinet is a good spot, stick the top of the wick under
the
bottom of the cabinet door allowing the candle to hang freely. Test
the
candle after 20 minutes or so. The wax should have set but still be
warm.
Lay a piece of waxed paper on the counter and roll the candle back
and
forth GENTLY!. This straightens the taper and reduces irregularities
on its
surface. When the candle is fairly straight, cut off the inverted cone
at
the bottom of the candle with a sharp knife. Dip the taper two more
times
and hang to dry until hard.
If you are using a container to pour the wax into be sure the mold is
warm
before you pour. NOTE: LUBRICATE the inside of the mold with
vegetable
oil. That way finished candle comes out! Attach base to the wick, wait
'til wax has formed a
thin skin on the top then drop wick down the center and hold in place
until
skin forms around it enough to hold it itself. After about 20 minutes
or
so, you'll notice a dent in the top of the wax. If the top is firm
to the
touch pour wax into the depression to make a flat surface. Let wax
set
completely for approximately 8-24 hours, depending on the size of the
container and trim the wick to 1/3 inch. NOW, let us segue to something
that goes with CANDLES like OATS WITH CREAM! THE GIRANDOLE!
MIRRORS
REFLECT THE CANDLE & GIVE DOUBLE THE LIGHT.- Ergo the invention
of the GIRANDOLE! Before electricity, most people went to bed at sundown
because their homes were dark. Candles, the glow of a fireplace and, by
the 19th century, lamps using whale oil, lard, kerosene or gas --added
a little more light. The rich decorated their rooms with crystal chandeliers,
mirrors, polished brass, luster-decorated ceramics and other items that
reflected light. The Classical girandole mirror will triple-reflect the
light. It's a wall mirror with arms for candles attached. Some have two
candles. This classical girandole made about 1800 has all the features
a collector desires. The mirror is convex, the frame is gilded pine, and
the top is a carved eagle. The four candles are held by scrolling arms
and brass candle cups. Hammer price at a 2010 Cowan auction in Cincinnati
was $20,000. You start making them down in Mexico with a tinsmith I remember
in San Miguel de Allende Guanajuato and charge l00$ each & lo! You've
got a great cottage industry! ODD FACTOID: It is said that
when Thomas Edison was a child, his mother was sick, but the doctor couldn’t
help her because it was getting dark. Edison carried all the household’s
mirrors and candles into his mother’s room so the candlelight was reflected
in the mirrors, increasing the amount of light. The doctor was able to
continue his work, and Edison’s mother recovered. And he of course went
on to study LIGHT and invent ELECTRICAL LIGHTBULBS and our UTILITY companies
are named after him ever since. Unfortunately they put the word CON in
front of his surname! And they do CON us, see HOW
THE CITY SNOOKERS US:. Decorative mirrors used in homes today usually
do not serve such a noble purpose as FREE LIGHT, but even today when your
electricity fails, it is wise to put candles in front of a mirror to magnify
the light. Our ancestors also knew that a convex mirror, one that has a
surface that curves out, creates even more reflected light! ANTIQUE
TRADING? These items are rare and old. You find one, hie thee to an
auction house! From about 1800 to 1820, the “girandole” was a popular mirror
to hang on a wall. It has a convex mirror, gilded frame and candleholders
attached so that candlelight is reflected in the mirror. These furnished
light for evening gatherings. Copies of antique girandoles are being made
today, but the candles are now electrified. Elaborate antique girandoles
sell for $2,000 to $20,000; recent copies sell for under $1,000.
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ANOTHER CANDLE STYLE AND METHOD: SAND CANDLES
http://fun.familyeducation.com/holidays/gifts/45257.html
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THE ENGLISH METHOD: Melt the wax and candle hardener (if you
are using extra, as hardener is
pre-mixed into the wax at the right ratio) in a double boiler,
when the wax
is melted add in your candle dye, one pinch at a time, stirring constantly
until you reach the desired colour intensity (please use gloves when
dealing with the dye and wash your hands afterwards). This is also
where
you add your scent, 10ml in 1kg (2.2 lbs) is more than enough, we do
not recommend
any more than this. Allow the wax to cool slightly (3-4 minutes) before
you
pour it into your mold.
Wick the mould:
Wick up the mould. Thread the wick through the hole in the bottom (which
is
really the top) of the mould and secure it no the outside with bluetack.
Tie the other end of the wick to the skewer and place the skewer
across
the top on the mould. make sure the wick is in the centre of the empty
mould.
Pour the wax :
Slowly pour wax in the mould, leaving about 1/2 a cm from the top.
You will
have wax left over (Put aside). Let the wax harden. You will notice
a
sinkhole at top of candle. Let the wax cool quite a bit before you
top the
candle up.
Top up the candle:
You will need to top up the candle as it cools to get a flat bottom
surface. reheat the remaining wax. Cut the Wick as close the the wax
as
possible at the top of the mould. Pour wax into the mould to top it
right
up.
Remove from the candle mould:
When the candle is hard gently remove from the candle mould and allow
to
harden for another 24 hours before your burn it. if your candle is
a bit
stuck put it in the fridge for an hour or so. this will make it shrink
slightly, making it easier to get out.
CAVEAT! Never leave the wax pot unattended while it is on. Never
leave handle sticking out where a kid who runs into kitchen might hit
it!
CATS go on stove? MINE DO. Lock them OUTSIDE!!!
SAVE old candles, and old tea light holders, no matter how small the
wax
piece. Or how bent and crummy looking the mold. Get an old pan and
carefully melt the wax.
Why buy expensive candle wicks when you can easily make your own from
cotton cord? In this article I will explain how to make candle wicks
and
how to use them successfully in your homemade candle creations.
How to Make Candle Wicks - Materials Needed
You'll only need a few simple materials to make candle wicks at home.
First, you'll need some cotton cord. This is easily found at craft
and
hobby stores and will be the base for your candle wicks. Make sure
you only
purchase 100% cotton cord, anything else won't work and could be a
fire
hazard.
The other materials you need to make candle wicks include two tablespoons
of borax, one tablespoon of salt, one cup of water, a plastic container
and
scissors.
To use the candle wicks in your homemade candles, you'll need paperclips,
a
candle mold and hot candle wax. The steps for using the candle wicks
are
described in depth below.
How to Make Candle Wicks - Step #1
The first step to make candle wicks is to put the borax, salt and water
in
a plastic container. Mix well and soak the cotton cord in the solution
overnight.
How to Make Candle Wicks - Step #2
The second step to make candle wicks is to remove the cord from the
borax
and salt solution. Allow the cord to dry thoroughly. One way to do
this is
to place the cord on a wire rack over the sink. You could also hang
the
cord over the sink if you don't have a wire rack.
How to Make Candle Wicks - Step #3
The final step to make candle wicks is to cut the candlewick to the
desired
length with the scissors. The length you make your candle wicks depends
on
the size of the candles you intend on using the wicks with.
Following this simple method, you've now made your very own candle wicks.
Read on to find out how to use them in your homemade candles.
Melt wax in a double boiler. The wax should heat to between 165 and
200
degrees F depending on the type of wax used. Refer to the manufacturer's
recommendations on this point.
Step2
Stir in the fragrance and color dye chips if desired using the wooden
stir
stick.
Step3
Pour melted wax into the container. Hold the wick steady in the center
and
allow the container to fill with melted wax around it.
Step4
Lay a wick clip or the stir stick across the top of the container and
rest
the wick against it. This will help hold the wick in place while the
wax
cools.
Step5
Check the position of the wick periodically while the wax cools. The
wick
might shift position slightly during cooling. If it does, move it gently
back to center.
Step 6
Make the second pour when the wax has cooled completely, in about 2
hours.
Melt the leftover wax mixture again, heating it to about 5 to 10 degrees
F
hotter than the wax for the first pour. Pour it into the container
on top
of the cooled candle to fill in where the wax shrunk when it cooled.
Step7
Cool the completed candle for about 2 hours, and then it will be ready
to
burn.
How to Make Candle Wicks - Using Homemade Candle Wicks
Now that you've made your candle wicks, you'll want to use them in your
homemade candles. First, insert the candle wicks through a paper clip.
Use
one paperclip for each candle wick. Fold the wick lengthwise and twist
the
ends together.
Tie Dyed candles are easy to make, but they look like works of art.
You can
make this project even easier by using canning wax, paper cups for
mold,
and crayons for dye, but you will always get the best results by using
a
metal mold, higher grade wax and wax additives, and liquid candle dye.
This
candle is an advanced-beginner project, it's best to be familiar with
basic
candle making techniques first. (GOOGLE IMAGE this tie-dye look.)
Steps
1. Prepare your entire work area, setting out all materials
beforehand.
Cover areas with newspaper or foil.
2. Melt small amount of wax in double boiler or wax melter,
to at least
160ºF. Prime your wicks at this time.
3. Pour wax into cube trays, wax button molds, or thin
pan. You can use
a cool water bath or the fridge to speed the wax's cooling up.
4. When the cubes have hardened, remove then from the mold.
If you've
used a pan, cut the wax into small pieces.
5. Wick the mold and place the white wax chunks into the
mold, Make sure
the wick is centered.
6. Melt a lesser amount of wax than you normally would
to fill the mold.
The wax chunks will take up some space, so you will only need about
2/3 the
normal amount.
7. Add any additives at this time. Luster crystals, white
beads, and
micro 180 are all good choices to make brighter colors and a harder
candle.
If nothing else, add stearine to increase the burning time.
8. Add scent if you wish.
9. Pour the liquid wax into the mold. Be careful not to
make a splash
over the chunks, and cover the chunks completely. Tap your mold to
release
air bubbles.
10. Take your liquid dye, or melted dye, and drop a small amount
around
the edges of the mold, so the dye travels down the sides of the candle.
11. Place the candle in the freezer. You can use a cold water
(ice water)
bath, but the freezer is easier. Check on the candle every ten or fifteen
minutes. Remove it from the freezer when the wax had hardened on the
bottom
of the candle. HOWEVER, CAVEAET! If your candle is in a glass container,
it is advisable
not to put it in the freezer. glass reacts to extreme changes in
temperature by shattering and/or cracking! Wrecking the CANDLE!
12. Top off the well that forms, if any does. Let the candle
cool in the
fridge (NOT the freezer) or at room temperature.
13. Remove your candle from the mold when it is completely hard,
and
enjoy the unique swirled patterns on your candle.
14. If you make candles you might as well go WHOLE HOG and make
SOAP
CHICKEN FAT is so abundant these days, you will feed your dog/cats
boiled chicken
give the bones to the possums, skim the fat off the broth easily by
leaving the whole
pot in the fridge overnight. I hand pick off the hard fat, store in
yogurt cartons, toss.
Then the broth can go on garden, it's uric acid like fertilizer, or
you can melt a little
over cat food. They aren't so sensitive to fat as dogs are. I
Feed animals a boiled chicken
twice a week. It's cheaper than any canned food and better (I
chop meat, add boiled
greens, also chopped,) and in a month get 2 or 3 quarts of fat!
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CARLA EMERY wrote the book COUNTRY LIVING. Has candlemaking in
it.
see the info online in a little box...take notes by hand.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Our
POSTER is ANITA SANDS HERNANDEZ, Los Angeles Writer, Futurist
and Astrologer. Catch up with her websites TRUTHS
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LIFE STYLE TIPS, HOW TO SURVIVE
the COMING GREAT DEPRESSION, and
Secrets of Nature, HOLISTIC, AFFORDABLE HEALING. Also ARTISANRY
FOR EXPORT, EARN EUROS....*
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