How to build book shelves
 
# Versatile Bookshelves: Edge Banding and Joinery
>From "Freeform Furniture" episode DFFF-105
http://www.diynetwork.com/search/shelves/results.do?Nr=Record%20Type:Result&N=4294944099+4294937124&diymeta=0
In one segment host Amy Devers explains edge banding, demonstrates
how to apply the material and then starts on the joinery. . There are many sites with pictures & video
GOOGLE her name "AMY DEVERS + "build shelves and DIY and you will find more articles

Materials:

3/4" plywood with walnut veneering
Cross-cut system
Pre-glued walnut edge banding
Pencil
Small roller
Edge band trimmer
Dowels
Masking tape
Dowel centers
Stainless steel tubes
Stainless steel washers
Threaded rod
Threaded insert
Screws
Nuts
Large forstner bit
Small forstner bit
1/2" drill bit
220-grit sandpaper
Cloths
Tent
Lacquer
Lacquer thinner
Sealer
400-grit sandpaper
Synthetic steel wool
Wood glue
Clamping blocks
Small paint brush
Metal chop saw
Safety glasses

Tools:

Table saw
Circular saw
Hot iron
Doweling jig (aluminum or wood)
Drill
Combination square
Tape measure
Clamps
Awl
Plastic mallet
Orbital sander
Professional spray gun
Disc sander

Edge Banding and Joinery

FYI: Edge band is just like tape but it's wood. It's pre-glued with a heat
activated adhesive

1. To adhere the edge banding, hold it against the work piece pressing
firmly with an iron set on medium  As the glue melts, the edge
banding adheres to the wood.

Note: It is important to move the iron slowly.

2. With a small roller, apply pressure to the edge. This insures the
melted adhesive gets a tight grip before it sets up.

3. The edge band comes a little oversized, so a tiny edge needs to be
trimmed off. Use an edge band trimmer and run it along the edge
and it will trim it flush.

4. The next step is the joinery process. All of the joints in this piece
are butt joints. A butt joint is just like it sounds--one piece of wood
butted up to the other . They need to be reinforced, so you need
to use dowels.

5. The first step in doweling is drilling the holes to receive them.
Make sure that the holes on both sides of the joint line up properly. You
can make a homemade doweling jig by welding some scraps of aluminum
together or make one out of wood--or you can just measure for
each hole. Put it where you want the side panel to line up and drill the
holes.

6. Make the measurements for the doweling jig a few inches off the end
of the shelf using the combination square. Set the jig to each mark and
then drill the dowel hole.

7. To make sure the holes are a uniform depth, use masking tape as a
depth indicator on the drill bit. Repeat the process, drilling all of the
dowel holes.

8. Secure the side panels to the work table. Again, using the jig, drill
the corresponding holes to attach the butt joints

9. Because the side panels are joined at the top and bottom to the
shelves, drill the opposing ends on the side panels to receive the dowels.

10. Do a check fit. Put the pieces together with the dowels in the holes
and make sure all the joints line up and everything is snug.

11. Insert the dowels in the top part of the side panel.

12. To finish this process off, fit the panel and the dowels together.

13. To construct the plinth (which is designed to give you clearance for
feet, and or brooms or vacuums and it reinforces the shelves), drilling
holes is the first step. Clamp the side of the plinth to the work table and
using the doweling jig as a guide, drill equally spaced holes.

14. Insert the dowel centers into the holes. These will mark the spot for
the dowels on the corresponding pieces of wood. To mark the placement for
the dowels on the front section of the plinth, start by setting the
90-degree jig and clamp it down.

15. Line the side piece up with the jig and press down creating divots on
the front of the plinth.

16. Use an awl and hammer and gently tap into the center of the mark. Set
the drill in the indent and make the dowel holes using tape as a guide.

17. Insert dowels into the side (figure G), then the front of the plinth
and the joints line up perfectly.

18. Dry fit all of the parts.

19. Drill the holes for the center supports.

Note: To give you an idea of how this all goes together--the
stainless steel tubes and washer act as a standoff between the two shelves.
They also conceal the threaded rod. The threaded rod cinches everything
together, and to anchor in there, it anchors into a threaded insert (figure
H).

20. Create the hole for the threaded insert. It is a two step hole and is
easy to make with two different sized forstner bits.

21. Make evenly spaced marks on the underside of the top panel.

22. Drill a shallow hole to house the top lip of the threaded insert.

Note: A forstner bit is a specialty wood cutting bit that rides on
semi-circular spurs and is used to make a clean flat bottom hole.

23. Next, with a narrower forstner bit, drill deep enough for the shaft.
Test to make sure the threaded insert fits flush into the holes.

24. Drill holes in the three shelves for the bookcase with 1/2" drill
bit. These holes are for the threaded rod to pass through.

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